Thursday, 5 November 2009

Tobermory

Spent Thursday afternoon, pootling around Tobermory looking in all the shops (there aren't many).  At around four thirty, we hiked up to the Western Isles Hotel (in the picture, it's the large grey building on the hill) for a coffee in their conservatory overlooking the harbour.  There was a wedding party on so we found ourselves surrounded by men in kilts and a bird in a big white dress.

After a chippy tea featuring local cod, we played backgammon and dominoes in our kitchen/diner.  We really know how to live it up when we're on holiday!

Tobermory Golf Club

Wow!  What a course.  It's certainly got the best views of anywhere I've ever played before and I would say it's also the hardest.  There are no bunkers, no water and very few trees - the difficulty comes from the massive changes in elevation.  Most of the fairways were almost terraced in appearance, on almost every shot you were hitting blind over a hill, or off a 'cliff' edge into a valley or over the top of a canyon.  I got more exercise in nine holes round here than I've ever had in 18 anywhere else.  Despite the terrain and my borrowed set of antique clubs, I shot 50 and was pretty pleased to do so.  If you like golf, and if you're ever in Tobermory, you must play this course!

Wednesday, 4 November 2009

Iona

We drove from Tobermory to Fionnphort, to catch a ferry to Iona.  A 10 minute sailing brings you to a very different landscape, much flatter and with the whitest beaches I've ever seen.  Iona is the place where St Columba established the first Christian settlement in Britain.  We looked around the Abbey and in the museum of stone crosses, some of which were from the 8th century.

K and I walked to a beach at the northern end of the island where we had a picnic atop a rock looking out to sea.  It was a really beautiful place and was helped by the fantastic weather.

On the way back to Tobermory we stopped to take lots of photos of the mountains in the southern half of Mull.  The browns, greens and reds at this time of year are really stunning, I don't believe our photos will do them justice so you'll have to take our word for it.

On our way to Iona


It's sunny!

Tuesday, 3 November 2009

Monday and Tuesday - Mulling it over in the rain

Yesterday the weather was wet, dry, wet, dry, wet, dry… in 5 minute intervals… all day. We didn't come to Mull in November expecting dry weather and we're determined not to let the rain slow us down so we donned our waterproof troosers and set off for Loch a’ Ghleannain (don’t ask me how to pronounce this, I have no idea). We got drenched, properly… imagine the wettest you’ve ever been, like in the bath, then double it and add some mud. With the car's heaters on full blast, we dried off enough to venture out again and had a wander around Torosay Castle gardens then through the forest to Craignure for a restorative pint. Last night we ate at MacGochan’s, scampi and chips twice and a game of pool.

Today the rain was on/off again but when it was on it wasn’t on as hard or as long as yesterday so we only needed five layers instead of twelve. We went on a boat trip into the Sound of Mull (this is a body of water, not a prog rock band). It was choppy at times but the two crew were very well informed and, as there were only six passengers, we were able to ask lots of questions. We saw grey seals, common seals, herons, shags (stop sniggering at the back) and, best of all, three harbour porpoises which came to within about 10 metres of the back of the boat. Wag, the first mate, said it was very unusual to see them so close as they are normally quite shy. Right we’re off out for a curry now, see you again soon.

Sunday, 1 November 2009

Tobermory - we've arrived!

Yesterday we arrived in Mull and had a walk around the harbour.  We had a pint and then went to Cafe Fish for dinner.  Guess what?  We had fish!  K had smoked salmon followed by scallops and I had onion soup followed by seafood stroganoff.  We both agreed it was one of the best meals we'd had for ages (apologies to any of our friends who have been kind enough to invite us round for dinner, your meals were nice too).

Today it was raining so we had a late fry-up, watched the GP and then went for a wet walk around the town.  We finished off with dinner at the Mishnish Hotel.  Really indifferent service in what is supposed to be Tobermory's most famous establishment.  However the food was OK and it was quiz night!  We came joint last.  Must do more revision next time.  Met a father and son from Essex who were touring the Highlands and islands taking nature photographs.

Saturday, 31 October 2009

Oban for the ferry to Mull

Who says that the Scots have made no contribution to international cuisine?  Battered pizza (aka "Pizza Crunch") is the future.  You can actually feel your arteries hardening (aka "Scotifying") as you eat it.  The ferry from Oban to Craignure (on Mull) was very quiet - we sat up on deck and enjoyed the bracing conditions.

Loch Lomond

On the way to Mull, we called at Luss (shores of Loch Lomond) and Inveraray (on Loch Fyne).  Dry for most of the journey, some clouds but plenty of blue patches too.  Ticked off another GBG pub in Inveraray!

Friday, 30 October 2009

Glasgow


Four star luxury in Glasgow city centre - don't panic, I got a 'deal'!  We arrived at about noon after an easy drive from Penrith, found the hotel really quickly and they were happy for us to check in early.  It was bit drizzly so we weren't seeing the city at its best.  We had a mission to tick off some of the many Good Beer Guide pubs in the city centre - we did about five.  In the evening we had a really good curry on Sauchiehall Street.  Off to Mull tomorrow.

Welcome to Scotland...


... unless you're a sassenach; yous can all pish off back to England.